Q: How do I get the best quality of cut?
A: To obtain the best cutting results and lawn appearance, follow these instructions.
- Maintain blades sharp throughout the season (for best results, sharpen monthly or when needed).
- Operate the machine at full throttle.
- Cut only 2/3 of the cutting cylinder at one stripe.
- Mow only on dry grass.
If the finished lawn appearance is unsatisfactory, try one or more of the following:
- Walk at slower pace while mowing.
- Do not cut below the 2 ½ inch setting unless the grass is sparse, or is late fall when grass growth begins to slow down. When changing the cutting height from an established setting to a higher cutting height, the grass may appear ragged or uneven until the grass adjusts to the new established cutting height and regains its normal appearance.
- Cut the grass more frequently
- Overlap the cutting swaths instead of cutting a full swath with each pass.
- Alternate mowing direction to keep the grass standing straight – this helps disperse clippings, which enhances decomposition and fertilization.
- Clean the clippings and dirt from the mower after each use. (Grass build up in mower will affect cutting quality.) Use a wooden tool, not a metal one.
Q: Does it matter what time of day I mow my lawn?
A: Yes. You should not mow the lawn when the grass is wet (under which conditions disease can be introduced, plus you incur the risk of slipping and getting injured), for example, the period just after a rainstorm would be a wrong time to mow, as would a time (at dawn) when the grass is still covered with dew. During the late morning after the dew has evaporated of a dry day; however is an example of a right time to mow the lawn. Deciding on when to cut the grass goes beyond waiting for dry conditions. Other factors go into picking a right time to mow the lawn, including personal factors. There are also further objective factors that we have yet to take into account. For example, mowing when the sun is pounding down on your grass, as it would during the afternoon of a hot summer’s day, puts a lot of stress on the lawn. Cutting grass in the evening, instead, would put less stress on it. On the other hand, you don’t want to cut the grass too late in the day, after darkness starts to fall, as this is a period of reduced visibility which increases the chances for a mowing mishap. As you can see, a lot of “juggling” will likely enter into your decision-making process. All else being equal, the early evening of a dry day may be the right time for mowing lawns. In conclusion, deciding on when to mow the lawn entails balancing personal factors with the cold, hard facts regarding safety and what’s best for the health of your grass.
Q: Should I consider a push or a self-propelled lawn mower?
A: Push Mowers
Push mowers are simple machines that offer the opportunity to combine yard work with
If you have a larger yard or uneven terrain, you need to consider a self-propelled mower.
Self-propelled mowers provide added power to turn or “drive” the rear rollers. This reduces mowing time and offers better maneuverability around trees and flowers beds.
Q: How do I clean my mower?
A: Before cleaning the mower, stop the motor/engine; wait for all moving parts to stop. Brush all grass clippings and debris off the top of the mower frame after every use. Clean the inside of the mower frame. Be carefully while clear grass clippings and debris near cutting cylinder, it could harm your fingers. Remove dirt and grass clippings with a hardwood scraper. Avoid burrs and sharp edges.
NOTICE! Do not spray or pour water in the mower when cleaning. Moisture can get trapped in the mower and cause corrosion of internal parts.
Q: What do I do with the grass clippings?
A: If you are mowing regularly and not removing more than 1/3 of the grass blade height, clippings can be left on the lawn and will provide a nutrient source to the grass plant as the organic material decays. When leaving clippings on the lawn, it is important to check the thickness of thatch. A thatch layer greater than 1 inch, may prevent the clippings from reaching the soil. In this case, you will need to bag the clippings or de-thatch your lawn.
Q: How do I properly store my Green mower for the off- season?
A: If you’re planning to do your own maintenance, or just want to see what we recommend, please read the following tips which will help you be ready for spring.
- Check the condition of the blades tighten all loose nuts, bolts, screws and engine/motor mounting fasteners making sure they are all tight.
- Clean/replace air filter
- Drain and refill engine crankcase with fresh oil. Start engine to allow engine oil to warm up. (4-Cycle models)
- Clean built-up grass clippings, dirt and debris near chain, gear set and cutting system (self-propelled models).
- Grease all points.
- Sharpen or replace blades near by the workshop.
- Remove spark plug and put about one tablespoon of oil through the spark plug hole
- Slowly pull the starter rope several times to distribute the oil.
- Replace spark plug but DO NOT connects spark plug wire.
- Store in a cool clean dry place, such as an unheated garage but NOT near a stove, furnace or water heater which uses a pilot light or any device that may create a spark.
- Cover the lawnmower to keep it clean and protected.
Q: What does it happen when over mowing?
A: Grass that is mowed below the recommended height for the species will not absorb the light that it needs for photosynthesis, which feed the roots, and your lawn may take on a brownish hue. So the more grass blade you leave the more light it absorbs and the healthier the lawn will be. Dull lawn mower blades can also cause damage to the grass blade and tear the tops off rather than cutting the tip of the grass blade smoothly. Rough edges on the grass plant leave it susceptible to disease and insect damage, so remember to check and sharpen your lawn mower blades.
Q: Ripples in the lawn after mowing – what are they?
A: Either the grass is too long, too wet or the mower is blunt or underpowered. Any one of these causes excess resistance on the blade as it rotates. This results in variations in the blade speed and therefore mowing quality causing ripples or a wave like appearance.
There could be another cause however and this can happen with rotary mowers as well if it has a rear roller. By mowing always in the same direction you can cause the turf or underlying soil to get minor ripples in it. As you keep mowing week in week out these little ripples cause the mower to undulate causing bigger ripples to the point where you feel the mower bouncing! The moral of this story is to change grass cutting direction at least once a month.
Q: Which type of lawn mower is best for my yard?
A: The size of your lawn is one factor that will help determine whether you need a push or self propelled lawn mower.
Smaller Lawns: Less than 1/8 acre, May only requires a push mower.
Larger Lawns: More than 1/8 acre, May require a self-propelled mower that assists in getting the job done faster and easier.
Q: What height should I be cutting, If don’t want to mow every week?
A: A typical height of cut for a good relatively level garden lawn is anywhere between 15 – 20 mm. Mow daily if cutting height set on 6 mm, if 10 mm, mow three times a week, if you need 20 mm, mow the grass two times a week. Irregular mowing at lower heights of cut will shock the grass plant and reduce its rate of growth, but at the risk of a) having an unsightly lawn, and b) potentially causing the death of the grass plant if a extreme weather event such as a prolonged dry period occurs.
Q: What causes stripes on my lawn? How shall I create them?
A: Stripes on your lawn creates cylinder lawnmower, because instead of wheels it is completely on two rollers. Front roller copies the terrain, determines cutting height. Rear roller is propelled. All grass-blades are inclined by rollers into one direction, into direction of running. Running there and back is created optical effect of different shade of grass. It is caused by fact, that grass is rolled in each running line into different direction.
Q: What is the power difference between the electric and petrol mower?
A: The petrol machines have heavy engines of over 7Hp compared with the electric 2Hp. If you have a larger lawn greater than 2 kanal and if you intend doing a lot of scarifying, or facing the electricity shortfall then choose a petrol machine. The Electric model is great where electricity is available in max 2kanal small lawn and where a trailing cable is not a problem.
Q: Is a basic model cylinder really better than a good rotary?
A: A cylinder mower has certain benefits over a rotary mower. Before making the choice you need to decide what type of lawn you want to achieve. In brief, difference is like between a scissors and knife, just imagine, how easy it is with scissors. A cylinder mower mows much closer and leaves stronger and longer lasting stripes. Grass cut with cylinder mower is more healthy, with higher density and of course more green. With a rotary, you are limited to how low you can mow, but this mower is very tolerant of stones and roots in your lawn. Visit www.greencityintl.com and see our “Cylinder vs. Rotary” section for a more in-depth response.
Q: Is the 10-blade upgrade worth getting for a smallish lawn? Will I still get stripes with the standard 5 or 6 blades?
A: The general rule is you have more blades the lower the height of cut you have. 10-12 bladed cutting cylinder cuts with the same RPM more often, frequency of cutting is proportionaly higher. A ten bladed cylinder would be used on areas such as a cricket wicket, a bowling green, and a golf green, which are cut at heights of 3 – 5 mm or less. An eight bladed cylinder would be more than adequate for a garden lawn. If you want to achieve a striped finish, the mower needs to have a roller fitted, irrespective of the type of cut or number of blades.
But if have a ornamental lawn you should cut with 5 blades.
Q: How often should I mow my lawn?
A: Mow when the grass is actively growing, the peak time for top growth is in the spring and moon soon rains you will need to cut it weekly.
Q: When can I stop mowing?
A: The short answer is to stop when the grass blades stops growing. For cool season species, shoot growth stops when temperatures drop below 40F and exceed 90F. Root growth will continue in the fall and through part of the winter, even after the shoot growth ends.
Q: when should I give a first cut and at what height on new turf?
A: Following guidelines:
- Mow when it gets to 6 to 8cm.
- Mow with newly sharpened blades on a dry day.
- The first cut should be around 5cm high.
- Keep the cut high for the next few cuts.
- In the first year be prepared to keep the cut high if weather becomes dry.
- First feed should be after about 6 months.
Q: When Should I fertilize my lawn- before or after the mow?
A: It is recommended to mow before applying fertilizer.
Q: What is the incline of a slope that a self-propelled mower is capable of climbing? What speed do the self-propelled mowers travel at?
A: in most conditions the mower will readily drive up a 1 in 3 slope (18 degrees) and with more difficulty on a 1 in 2 slope (27 degrees).
Speed=3 to 4 km – domestic self-propelled
Q: What should I do to prepare my machine for the mowing season?
A: Check blades for sharpness. Make sure the cutting system is cleared of old clippings. Check that attachments are connected and working properly.
Q: Who covers the warranty on self propelled mowers?
A: Honda covers the engine warranty and Heco covers the motor 3 months warranty.